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Location <br />The compost pile should he> loc ated close to where it will be <br />• used and v<•hrre it will not interfere wills activities in the yard <br />or offend neighbors. Examples of good locations for the pile <br />include: near the garden or kitchen, or I~ehveen the garage <br />and house. The pile will do best where it is protected from <br />drying winds and in partial sunlight to help heat the pile. The <br />more wind and sun the pile is exposed tu. the more water it <br />Wlll need. <br />Preparing the Compost Pile <br />T le compost pile should be prepared in layers. This will fa- <br />ctlttate c~ecom osrtlonT~ -Insurln ro er mixin .~ezam- <br />p e o t e a erin rocess is it ustratc>c in Fi ore 4. I Bally, <br />,/ etch pile should be a out five feet iK . <br />Organic wastes, such as leaves, grass, and plant trimmings <br />are put down in a layer eight to ten inches deep. Coarser ma- <br />terials will decompose faster if placed in the bottom layer. <br />This layer should be watered until moist, but not soggy. A ni- <br />,~vr~ trogen source should be placed on top of this layer. Use one <br />~~~,~ to two inches of livestock manure, or use a nitrogen fertilizer <br />such as ammonr nitrate or ammonium su a-Tf-te at a rate of <br />~ one third of a cup for every twenty five square feet of surface <br />s''.area. If these nitrogen sources are not a~ ailable, one cup of <br />y~~ 10-10-t O fertilizer per ?5 square feet of surface area "•ill also <br />suffice. Do not use fertilizer that contains herbicide or pesti- <br />cide. Other organic sources of nitrogen that can Im used are <br />grass clippings, lake plants, alfalfa hay, or blood meal. Grass <br />• clippings tend to mat and should either be mixed well with <br />other materials, or placed in layers only hvo to three inches <br />thick. <br />About a one inch layer of soil or completed compost can be <br />applied on top of the fertilizer layer. One purpose of adding <br />soil is to ensure that the pile is inoculated "•ith decomposing <br />microbes. The use of soil in a compost pile should be consid- <br />ered optional. In most cases, organic yard wastes such as <br />grass clippings or leaves contain enough microorganisms on <br />the surface to effect decomposition. Studies have shown that <br />there is no advantage in purchasing a compost starter or in- <br />oculum. Microbes multiply as rapidly from the soil andlor <br />added organic wastes as from the inoculum. Those microbes <br />already in the soil and on organic materials are just as effi- <br />cient in decomposing the .waste as those provided by the <br />commercial inoculum. Adding soil, however, will help re- <br />duce leaching of mineral nutrients such as potassium re- <br />leased during decomposition. Repeat the sequence of <br />adding organic waste, fertilizer, and soil (optional) until the <br />pile is completed, remembering to water each section. <br />The carbon:nitrogen (C/N) ratio will determine ho~v long de- <br />compositionwilt take. AC1N ratio of about ?0 is needed for <br />rapid composting without nitrogen being tied up. If the C/N <br />ratio is above 50, the process will be considerably slower. <br />The C/N ratio of common organic yard wastes is provided in <br />Table 2. <br /> <br />SOIL FERT1112ER OR MANURE <br />ORGANIC MATERIALS <br />Grass, leaves, weeds, etc. <br />^,~ttrn <br />. ~ -~ ~ .. <br />Figure 4 <br />Maintaining tlr,e Compost Pile <br />To prevent odors and hasten decomposition, the pi le must be <br />turned occasionally. Turning also exposes seeds, insect lar- <br />vae, and pathogens to lethal temperatures inside the pile. <br />Turning may be done by inverting segments of the compost, <br />or by shifting the pile into another bin. The compost pile <br />should he kc pt moist but not waterlogged. Odors may arise <br />either from the acAlitiun of excessive amounts of wet plant <br />material, like (roils ur grass clippings, or from overwatering. <br />A prolx~rl~ mixed and adequately turned compost pile v<•ill <br />not have ubjectiunal,le cxlors. An actively decomposing pile <br />will reach temperatures of 130° - 160°F in the middle. Rea- <br />sonsfor the pile nut heating up may include too small a pile, <br />nut enuu~;h nitrogen, lack of oxygen, too much moisture, or <br />not enough moisture. The pile should be turned when the <br />temperature in thc~ center begins to cool. This will introduce <br />ox)•gen and undecomposed material into the center and sub- <br />sequentl~ regenerate heating. The composting process is es- <br />sentiall~ cuml,lete ~~ hen mixing no longer produces heat in <br />tllc' pile. <br />Small amounts of fmsh materials may be added provided that <br />the pile is occasionally turned. Vegetable wastes should be <br />buried inside the pile to avoid attracting rodents. If enough <br />material is availahlr, it is best to make a new pile instead of <br />combining ~~•ith old compost <br />t: ~c~nerally, a well managed compost pile with shredded ma- <br />tc~l.l , unc L•r ~aann can rtrons wl rea y In a out <br />mu~tths.:~ pile ktit unattended and material not shredded <br />la • take over a year to decompose. Piles prepared in the late <br />fall will nut lx ready for use t e~llowing spring. When the <br />cumrxstisfinished thepilewillbeabouthalfitsorigin~sfze <br />and have an earthy smell to it. <br />Table 1. Persistence of herbicides in soil (2) <br /> Longevity in Soil <br />Common Name Trade Names (months) <br />Bc>nciln Bolan, Bal(in 4-8 <br />DCPA Uacthal 4-8 <br />BensuGclt• Betasan, Prefar 6-12 <br />(;It {,h, ~>,Ite Roundup, Klcrnup less than 1 <br />-_',a-I) tMany Formulations) ) -2 <br />~1C I'I' tf~lany formulations) 1-3 <br />Drcamha B~m•el 3-1 ~ ` <br />