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 NEVER use heat lamps or heaters with hot wire filament, <br />exposed filament heaters, exposed element space heaters, etc. as <br />these can start fires! <br /> OK heaters to use: oil radiant heaters (see picture to the right), <br />Sweeter Heaters (http://sweeterheater.com/) <br />o Light: Having adequate light to see and a normal day-night light cycle <br />is important for health. Supplemental light is usually needed inside the <br />coop and having it on a timer is a handy way to ensure adequate light <br />cycles. <br />o Size: 12 square feet of floor space per bird, ideally with added levels <br />and roosts for them to explore. The coop will be both their shelter <br />AND their exercise area so they need more room. <br />o Enrichment: chickens are curious and easily bored in a coop. Google <br />‘chicken enrichment’ and give them new enrichment daily. <br /> Summer shelter functions: The winter and summer shelter can be the same structure but they <br />have different functions depending on the season <br />o Temperatures: Chickens overheat when the temperature is >80 degrees F. Ensure they <br />have access to plenty of shade, fresh drinking water and ambient breezes. <br />o Size: Because they will only be locked up dusk-dawn, 4 square feet of floor space per <br />bird is adequate. Roosts should accommodate all birds. <br />o Birds should be locked up dusk-dawn and let out into their pen for the entire day, but <br />have free choice back into the coop. If you keep them locked up until humans are woken <br />up (which is often many hours past sunrise), monitor temperature in the shelter to ensure <br />it does not get too hot on summer mornings. <br /> <br />Fenced Outdoor Yard aka Run <br />Chickens need to have access to outdoor space whenever weather allows (when it is >45 degrees F) for <br />enrichment, foraging, and their health. It is also great for us as they eat many insects and aerate the <br />soil. <br /> Size: Generally, 43 square feet per bird of outdoor yard/run space means you may need to rotate <br />the run every 4 weeks unless you plan to landscape for chickens inside the run (ie pea gravel, <br />wood chips, chicken resistant plants,[see book Free-Range Chicken Gardens] etc) By increasing <br />the square feet per bird, you may be able to skip rotation depending on the soil, plant types and <br />landscaping. <br /> Temperature: Chickens should be let outside when >45 degrees F and should always have <br />access to shaded drinking water, shade, shelter, and ambient breezes for when it is hot outside. <br /> Run construction: Chickens, like many small animals can be victims to urban predators, such <br />as raccoons, opossums, fox, coyote, raptors, mink, weasel and stray dogs. Most predators will <br />be excluded from the run with 2x4” welded wire, however they can climb and dig under these <br />fences. Predators such as hawks can come in from above. Smaller predators such as mink and <br />weasel can fit through 2x4” welded wire. To completely predator proof an outdoor run, <br />hardware cloth (1/2” holes) can be used for fencing (or attached tightly to another type of <br />fencing from the inside) and sunk into the ground at least 6”. Netting, such as knotted gamebird <br />netting (cutlersupply.com) works well for the top of the pen but winter precipitation will cause it <br />to sag, bringing your fence down with it, so remove every fall. <br /> <br />