04-11-1990 Council Agenda - Laserfiche WebLink

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availability of oxygen that is needed for decomposition. Some things should NOT be com- posted. Pet feces can transmit diseases. Meat, bones, grease, whole eggs, and dairy products attract rodents and other animals. Badly diseased or insect- infested plants and weeds that are loaded with seed may not heat up enough to be rendered harmless. Preparing Your Compost Pile. Build your compost pile in layers. Begin with eight to ten inches of leaves, grass, or plant trimmings. Water it to the point of being moist, but not soggy. Then add a nitrogen source, such as ammonium nitrate, ammo- nium sulfate, or an inexpensive high nitro- gen lawn fertilizer without herbicide. Sprinkle the pile with 1/3 to 1/2 cup of fertilizer per 25 square feet of surface area (a 5' x 5' bin). If you live in a rural area and have access to livestock manure, you can use a two inch layer of manure as your nitrogen source. You may choose to add a one inch layer of soil or completed compost over the nitrogen to increase the number of decom- posing microbes in the pile. However, most leaves and plant scraps have enough micro- organisms to get the job done with- out the addition of soil or compost. Repeat these layers until the pile reaches a height of five feet, watering each time you add new layers. Liming. It is normally not necessary to add lime to your compost pile to improve the breakdown of most yard wastes. Fin- ished compost is usually slightly alkaline; if you add lime during the decomposition process, it will probably be too alkaline when completed. If your pile contains large amounts of acidic materials such as pine needles or fruit wastes, you might add lime, but no more than one cup per 25 cubic feet of material. Excessive lime application can lead to loss of nitrogen from the compost pile. * Maintaining Your Compost Pile. An active compost pile will heat to somewhere between 130 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit. As the center cools, turn the pile to help speed decomposition and minimize any objectionable odors. You will need to do this once or twice a month. Continue to water your compost pile periodically to keep it moist but not soggy. You can add a little fresh material when you turn the pile, but generally, you're better off beginning a new pile. A well- managed compost pile will be ready in two to four months in the warm season, whereas an untended pile will take a year or more to decompose. When com- pleted, your compost pile will be about half its original height, and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. There are many structures for composting; no one structure is best. For a more thorough description of different structures, refer to The Complete Book of Composting by J.I. Rodale, Rodale Books, Inc. It should be available at many public libraries. Deborah Brown is an extension horticulturist--environ- mental horticulture. Carl Rosen is an extension soil scientist -- fertility. Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agricul- ture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Patrick J. Borich, Dean and Director of Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota, St..Paul, Minnesota 55108. The Uni- versity of Minnesota, including the Minnesota Extension Serv- ice, is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to its programs, facilities, and employment without regard to race, religion, color, sex, national origin, handicap, age, veteran status, or sexual orientation. • PAGE 88