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Agenda Packets - 1989/04/17
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Agenda Packets - 1989/04/17
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MV Commission Documents
Commission Name
City Council
Commission Doc Type
Agenda Packets
MEETINGDATE
4/17/1989
Description
Work Session
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different sites. The highest concentrations were found in <br />composts produced at sites in the most urban areas. Gener. <br />ally it has been considered safe to use garden produce grown <br />in soils with total lead levels less than 500 mgfkg (parts per <br />million). The lead levels in the yard waste composts are con- <br />siderably less than this suggested fir. ,. Other trace metals <br />such as cadmium, nickel, copper, chromium, and zinc are <br />also present in compost in small quantities. The Minnesota <br />Pollution Control Agency has established maximum <br />con- <br />centrationsof these elements for composts that are applied to <br />soil. The allowable levels in milligrams per kilogram on a dry <br />weight basis are: <br />Cadmium 10 <br />Nickel 100 <br />Copper S00 <br />Chromium 1000 <br />Zinc 1000 <br />Typical concentrations of these elements found in municipal <br />yard waste composts are many times less than the allowable <br />levels. <br />Use of Compost as a Soil Amendment <br />Compost is used as an organic amendment to improve physi- <br />cal, chemical, and biological properties of soils. Adding <br />compost will increase the moisture holding capacity of <br />sandy soil, thereby reducing drought damage to plants. <br />When added to heavy clay soils, compost will improve <br />drainage and aeration, thereby reducing waterlogging dam- <br />age to plants. Compost will increase the abilityof the soil to <br />•^ hold and release essential nutrients. The activity of earth- <br />worms and soil microorganisms beneficial to plant growth <br />will be promoted with compost additions. Other benefits of <br />addingcmnpost include improved seed emergenceand wa- <br />ter infiltration due to a reduction in soil crusting. <br />Over time, yearly additions of compost will create desirable <br />soil structure, makiig the soil much easier to work. For im- <br />proving soil physical properties, add and incorporate 1 - 2 <br />inches of well decomposed compost in the top 6.8 inches of <br />soil. Use the lower rate for sandy soils and the higher rate for <br />clay soils. <br />To a limited extent, compost is a source of nutrients. How- <br />ever, nutrient release from compost is slow and the nutrient <br />content is often too low to supply all the nutrients necessary <br />for plant growth. As noted in Table 3, there is a wide variation <br />in aulrient content of municipal leaf compost. Differences <br />are probably due to several factors including age of the com- <br />post, amount of water added, plant species, and the amount <br />of soil that becomes mixed into the pile during turning. <br />It is usually necessary to supplement compost with some fer- <br />tilizer, particularly nitrogen. If the C/N ratio of the compost is <br />less than 20 to 1, nitrogen will tend to be released rather than <br />tied up (5). For the majority of municipal yard waste com- <br />posts, the UN ratio,, Inss than 20 toI(Table <br />3:unts of Thus, <br />whine <br />composts may not supply significant <br />especially in the short run, nitrogen tie-up should not be a <br />major concern with most yard waste composts. <br />Approxi-mately 1 cup of ammonium nitrate a 15 lb actual nitrogen) <br />_ v per 3 bushels (100lbs compos0 is required to provide the ad- <br />ditional nitrogen needed by most garden plants. <br />Have your soil tested every few years to determine whether <br />supplemental phosphorus and potassium are required. The <br />PH of most yard waste composts is usually between 7.0 and <br />8.0.This slightly alkaline pH of compostshould not pose any <br />problems when diluted by mixing into the soil and in fact is <br />beneficial to plants ;rowingon acid soils. Because of the al. <br />kaline pH, yard waste composts do not appearwell suited for <br />use on acid loving plants such as azaleas and blueberries. <br />Use of Compost in Potting Soils <br />Leaf compost can ue used as a component of potting mixes. <br />Generally, no more than one quarter to one third by volume <br />of the potting mix should be compost: over time some of the <br />compost is likely to decompose and the volume of the pot- <br />ting soil will be reduced. In addition, high levels of compost <br />in a mix may cause waterlogging and poor aeration for roots. <br />Although proper composting destroys most weed seeds and <br />disease organisms, some may still survive due to incomplete <br />mixing. To obtain a completely pasteurized leaf compost, it <br />is necessary to heat the material in an oven until the tempera- <br />ture of the center reaches 160-F and is maintained for 30 <br />minutes. <br />Use of Compost as a Mulch <br />Mulches are used in gardens to suppress weeds, reduce soil <br />erosion, modify the soil temperature (cooler in the summer, <br />warmer in the winter), and conserve soil moisture. Yard <br />waste compost makes an ideal mulch for annual and peren- <br />nial garuens. All that needs to be done is to apply a 3.6 inch <br />layer of compost around the base of the plant. Periodically <br />throughout the summer, you may need to add more compost <br />aver the old layers to maintain the heriefits of the mulch. <br />The soil environment beneath the mulch is favorable for <br />promoting earthworms which in turn are valuable It aerat- <br />ing the soil. Organic matter is gradually added to the soil as <br />the mulch decomposes. For annual gardens, the mulch can <br />be worked into the soil at the end of the season to further im- <br />prove soil physical properties. For perennials, it may be ben- <br />eficial to remove the mulch in the spring to allow the soil to <br />thaw out faster. Asdiscussed above, a well decomposed Yard <br />waste compost will nat tie up nitrogen. Therefore, additional <br />nitrogen beyond that recommended for plant growth is un- <br />necessary. If uncomposted or partially composted leaves are <br />used, one tablespoon of a high nitrogen fertilizer should be <br />applied to each bushel of mulch. <br />Alternatives to Composting Grass Clippings <br />The question of whether to collector not to collect grass clip- <br />pings has been around for a long time. However, it is now <br />agreed that as long as the grass is not excessively long and <br />cl ippings de not thickly cover the lawn surface after mowing, <br />there is normally no need to collect the clippings. Aside from <br />reducing the work involved in lawn maintenance, leaving <br />the grass clippings benefits the turf by returning nutrients and <br />organic matter to the soil. if evenly distributed, clippi alien <br />left <br />on the lawn can be equivalent to one fertilizer application <br />per year. <br />In order to keep your lawn looking healthy and to control the <br />amount of clippings generated, several maintenance prac- <br />tices should be followed. It is important that mowing height <br />be properly adjusted. The height of the cut will depend on <br />
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